The Western Sport region kicks off on Anglesey, where the sea-washed limestone crags around Benllech and Fedw Fawr have been developed extensively, making the area well worth a visit. Back over the Menai Bridge, the hillside above Llanfairfechan contains large old quarry workings packed with routes, plus some nice smaller crags, all now fully equipped. Located just west of Conwy, The Gallery, Penmaenbach Quarry and the newly extended Noticeboard Crag give a vast variety of climbing styles on volcanic rock, where a combination of strength and dexterity pays dividends. All with exceptional views over the Irish Sea.
The best-known area in this book, it features the crags of Marine Drive and the hugely impressive Castell y Gwynt. In addition to the brilliant and popular Pen Trwyn and Lower Pen Trwyn, you’ll be surprised to find a wealth of completely new crags hidden away around the corner. Many of these crags come into the sun just as it leaves Pen Trwyn in the shade. Extensive development and re-equipping have transformed neglected crags hereabouts into popular afternoon sport venues.
The Little Orme is perhaps the least frequented area in this book. Further developments have revitalised a few easily accessible and sunny sport crags that will no doubt become popular. The showcase crags of the Great Zawn and the enormously impressive and now further developed The Diamond show off excellent trad and world-class sport – both give fabulous, adventurous venues for experienced climbers.
Central Sport area offers a variety of easily accessible crags. Venues like Penmaen Head, with its newly re-furbished Trench Wall sector, Llanddulas Cave and Castle Inn Quarry provide great, well equipped sport crags with all-season possibilities. The jaded rock cat can usually find something to climb here at any time of the year.
Craig y Forwyn is the pride of North Wales Limestone trad climbing and has been, in part, lovingly restored to its former glory. Access is sensitive, so maintaining a low profile remains the norm here. The bicep bursting, powerful lines on the smooth limestone remain top-class and nationally renowned.
Eastern Sport details a whole host of useful quarries and crags around Dyserth, Denbigh and Mold. Often dry when the west is wet, these sport crags offer distinctly different climbing opportunities to the travelling climber – perhaps those looking for a quick evening hit, or to escape the western rains? The mighty Devil’s Gorge, with its wealth of long, steep, endurance sport climbs will challenge the strongest climbers.